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Stud Wall Room Project Planner

Splitting a room or adding a home office? Enter the wall size once and work through the frame, the plaster and the finishing. Save each step to one job for a single shopping list.

Last checked 19 October 2026 by the UkToolCalc team

Your measurements

Enter them once. Every step opens with them filled in, so you only check the details.

m
m
  1. 1

    1. Timber frame and plasterboard

    CLS studs, plates and noggins, plasterboard for both sides, and acoustic insulation.

    Open 1. Timber frame and plasterboard
  2. 2

    2. Skim the new wall

    Multi-finish plaster for one face of the wall. Double it if you're skimming both sides.

    Open 2. Skim the new wall
  3. 3

    3. Skirting

    Skirting along one face of the new wall. Double the length if you're fitting it on both sides.

    Open 3. Skirting
  4. 4

    4. Paint

    Mist coat for the new plaster, then two coats of emulsion.

    Open 4. Paint

How to plan a stud wall

A stud wall is one of the most useful DIY jobs: a weekend or two of work for a new bedroom, office or utility room. Before you buy anything, check the new layout works for fire escape and light.

  1. Find the joists above and below so the head and sole plates can be fixed into something solid.
  2. Build the frame: head plate, sole plate, studs and noggins, with a door opening if you need one.
  3. Run cables first, then insulate and board both sides. Photograph the frame before you board it, so you always know where the studs and cables are.
  4. Tape and skim the joints, fit skirting and door linings, then mist coat and paint once the plaster is dry.

The full step-by-step, with framing diagrams and a priced planner, is in our stud wall guide.

What a 3.6m wall needs

A 3.6m × 2.4m partition with one door, at 400mm centres, takes about 15 lengths of 3m 38 × 89mm CLS, 7 sheets of plasterboard for both faces, and about 8.6m² of acoustic insulation. Skimming both faces (about 17m²) is roughly 4 bags of Multi-Finish. Skirting for both sides is about 7m, and painting both sides with a mist coat and two coats is around 4–5 litres. The steps above work these out from your wall size. Remember to double the skirting and plaster steps if you're finishing both sides.

Order of work and trades

  1. Plan the layout and check the rules: escape routes, a window for any new bedroom, and ventilation.
  2. Frame the wall and door opening, and fix door linings.
  3. First-fix electrics: new sockets and switches must be done by a competent person and meet Part P. Arrange this before boarding.
  4. Insulate and board both faces, with joints staggered.
  5. Skim (or tape and joint), let it dry, then second-fix electrics, hang the door and fit skirting and architrave.
  6. Decorate: mist coat, two coats of emulsion, and woodwork.

Making the new room work

  • Light: a room without a window feels like a cupboard. Try to split the room so both halves keep some natural light.
  • Heating: the new room may need its own radiator. The radiator BTU calculator sizes it.
  • Sound: acoustic insulation and sealed edges make a real difference between a bedroom and a living room.
  • Doors: decide which way the door opens before framing, and leave room for the light switch beside it.

Decorating the rest of the room at the same time? The redecorating planner adds paint, paper, skirting and flooring for the whole space.

Frequently asked questions

Do I need building regulations approval for a stud wall?

A simple non-load-bearing partition usually doesn't need approval, but the new rooms must still meet the rules, especially fire escape routes. Avoid creating an 'inner room' that can only be reached through another room, such as a bedroom off a kitchen.

What timber is used for stud walls?

Most UK stud walls use 63 × 38mm or 89 × 38mm CLS timber, with studs at 400mm or 600mm centres so 1200mm-wide plasterboard joins on a stud.

How do I make a stud wall soundproof?

Fill the cavity with acoustic mineral wool and use acoustic or double-layer plasterboard. Seal gaps at the top, bottom and around sockets, because sound leaks through gaps more than through the boards.

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